‘Wine for thought’
Charles Steevenson explains the price worth paying for the commitment to new English vineyards.
As the often manic summer season draws to a close, those of us in the wine trade now take stock of those wines that, to-date, have served us well, and also plan our next wave of new arrivals.
There is no doubt the initial visit to a prospective supplier is, for both parties, crucial. It is not just about the wine, one instantly knows if there is going to be a workable synergy, which we will often nurture over many years. For 28 years it has always been so important that we respect our producers and are able to let their wines tell their story and reflect the passion about each and every wine we ship. Further jaunts to visit our far flung suppliers are a real luxury, yet not always essential. After all, samples of new wines can be posted and we do have the ability to talk on the phone without the need to travel. Perhaps at present, one of the greatest joys of the enthusiastic wine merchant is not so much exploring vineyards in places with a foreign address, but actually visiting the plentiful supply of wine producers closer to home. Many people are just not aware how many vineyards there are in England and Wales. In fact the number stands at over 500, and this is growing! 500 viable vineyards who, despite our erratic weather, manage to run vineyards that make inspiring wines against the odds.
Despite the relative infancy of our local wine industry we are now respected across the world as being a very credible wine producing nation. With regular exports to over 15 countries the long term future is very promising. In a recent survey conducted by a trade retail publication, it was concluded that as far as the perception of quality and image of English wines, we came in at a very respectable 4th position, only beaten by France, Italy and Australia. Such is the confidence in both quality, value and dependability of English wine that sales are, for some producers, in excess of 70% up on previous years. Whether you buy your English wines from supermarkets, independent retailers, online or through the licensed trade, sales of English wines are soaring.
It is worth noting that the dedication and perseverance if our industrious wine producers really is very commendable. With wine produced often in relatively small amounts, the ‘economies of scale’ are tested to the limits ... especially if the key controlling factor, that being the weather, deals a bad hand. So much so that the detrimental effect of less than perfect weather will not only affect the size of the yield, the quality, ageing potential and of course the price, oh and ... the all-important reputation of the what to many of the critics and cynics, is an unproven product.
Do be mindful that in a bad vintage, that being one where the weather is in a very bad mood, wine producers often will make very little or no wine at all. Such impact will inevitably necessitate that the price of the wine from the cellar door will have to be averaged out to ensure the survival of the vineyard. In a cycle of ten years, maybe there could be 2 or 3 great years, 3 or 4 average years and maybe a couple of howlers. It is always worth remembering that for the new vineyard, the very first year of wine production can be some five years after the vines are planted; that really does show commitment. Commitment, I believe, we need to reward with our custom and support. Do not balk at the prospect of spending £10 or more on a bottle of English wine, after all the average retail price of a bottle Chablis, Sancerre or a modest Claret are all averaging well over £10. I do need to reiterate that, like for like, English wine does always perform well in blind wine tastings. As rule of thumb these display elegance, welcome restraint and poise, reflect real style and, above all, they are usually so food friendly.
Not only do we all enjoy fantastic locally produced foods from a dedicated army of passionate producers, but now also produce fantastic wines. Try some, you will not be disappointed.
Charles Steevenson
Steevenson Wines ~ The Far Flung Wine Company