Charles’ Christmas with Wine
It is all too apparent that for many, wine is wine, whether we are cracking open random bottles to wash down a BBQ or selecting to impress at a family wedding or, maybe, as in this case choosing wines to enhance jollifications over Christmas. Some still regard wine as confusing and as such the selection as a chore. After all, Prosecco, Chilean Merlot and Sauvignon do suit most palates and pockets, yet trust me, there really can be more to wine. Nothing wrong with these three wines but it is doing the frivolous Christmas festivities that we tend to up-spend on most of life’s luxuries, so a modest increase in one’s budget and thus experiment and explore wines beyond the norm, they can be a revelation.
There is one grape that I consider to be inseparable with Christmas it is the Pinot Noir, regarded as the Noble Grape. I start with this red as it conjures up the image and expectation of cosy candlelit evenings, tables laden with Christmas fare, open fires and delicious fruity Pinot Noir swilling around in over generous wine goblets. Christmas is not Christmas without turkey. Whilst the restrained flavours of a white meat can be hijacked by the more dramatic influences of dried fruit stuffing, ham and sausages, the Pinot Noir grape can bind all these flavours without overwhelming.
There is no doubt that if price is not a consideration, Burgundy and Pinot Noir are insurmountable; Volnay, Cotes de Beaune are always worth an extravagant punt. That said, the smart money is on New Zealand, South Africa, Australia and our top budget beater rocks in from Romania – ‘Paparuda’ at £6.50, just voted the ‘Best Value Pinot Noir in the Country’ ... so true in every way. We are delighted to have acquired an allocation of the official ‘Best Pinot Noir from New Zealand’. ‘Greystones’ from Waipara Valley is sublime and at £24.95 mimics a £40 Burgundy. Mid-priced and right on the money at £8.90 is our Klippenkop from Robertson, South Africa ... it is stunning.
I would not be doing my job as a Vintner if I did not mention Beaujolais. Be they the everyday youthful, ridiculously over fruity and juicy Beaujolais or the more sublime Fleurie Cru Beaujolais. Boxing Day is Beaujolais day! So well suited to take on pickles, cold meats and the like. Serve slightly chilled to add an extra dimension.
It’s true to say whilst the vast array of white grape options can be overwhelming, it is the classics that come to the fore over Christmas. Gewurztraminer is a must with smoked salmon; racy, scented Riesling from the Mosel, often light in alcohol and subtle any time before during or after a meal; Kiwi Sauvignon, if you favour drama and big flavours of gooseberry, asparagus, elderflower, these are for you. Maybe the more elegant pure style of Sauvignon from the Loire such as our star of the moment, Les Anges 2014, a Sancerre look-a-like is only £7.99. And yes ... Chardonnay, the true classic white grape, the grape of Burgundy, with or without oak influence and from virtually every country and indeed at every price point.
And ... the essential part of Christmas… Pudding Wine, or Dessert Wine, call it what you will. Whilst primarily sweet, their levels of sweetness are as variable as the colour and price. Every year one wine in particular dominates, ‘Rutherglen Muscat’. Fortified like a Port, this wine has been nicknamed ‘Liquid Christmas Pudding’, the perfect accompaniment with all types of Christmas pudding. So ridiculously moreish and a bottle will fit into a Christmas stocking! For those who want a more restrained and less sweet wine, Casa Silva Gewurztraminer-Semillon at £8.50 is so well suited for all desserts.
Editor says stop! I haven’t even mentioned Champagne, Cognac, Armagnac and so on .....
Happy Christmas!
Charles Steevenson