The changing and evolving world of wine...

Despite the fact we are led to believe that there is an ever increasing and insatiable desire for more and more wines, it might come as a surprise that the actual amount of wine produced in 2017 fell dramatically to its lowest since 1957, with a global reduction of 8.9 %. The highest reductions were felt in the vineyards of Europe, where many regions in France, Spain and Italy saw as much as a 20-28% reduction.

Let’s for a moment focus on prosecco, on average down by 26%, while the staggering growth in prosecco consumption is still rising by some 33% year on year. To date there has always been an ample prosecco lake in reserve - well alas the lake has now dried up, so in short there will be a shortage, and yes, of course prices will have to rise. This is excellent news however for the producers of fabulous prosecco alternatives. Maybe now we can re-engage perhaps with classic cavas from Northern Spain; wines that were so dominant ten years ago, but whose reputation and credibility became somewhat tarnished by over exposure and unrealistically low prices enforced by the tactics of the supermarkets. Maybe one should revisit the sparklers from Argentina, Australia or even England, although small production of the often-outstanding English wines will always put them at a disadvantage in the very competitive ‘everday fizz’ market.

Last year whilst visiting key suppliers in southern France, my son and I were bowled over by sublime crémants de Loire and crémants de Limoux , each one displaying elegant less aggressive fruit than their obvious rivals, enhanced further by gentle mousse and intriguing persistence. At the time we both commented that if only they could be sold in the UK for a price similar to the infamous prosecco...... Well, maybe things are about to change. When one door shuts, another door opens, that’s the nature and joy of wine production.

My son Liam, a master of wine, and previously a wine buyer for Waitrose, now focuses on his wine consultancy business as well as wine production and wine-making. Sparing his blushes, he is rather good at this as the recent release of his Immortelle and the Petit Immortelle wines from the Côtes du Roussillon will confirm. Many of you might be familiar with his delicious and highly acclaimed Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc ‘Fincher’. Liam has the following thoughts on emerging new wine regions, “Having made that progression from wine merchant to wine producer, I have become increasingly aware of the challenges that nature throws our way. I am not sure I can credit global warming with a decision to start making wine in India; it is challenging climatically, with two harvests a year and soaring temperatures during the growing season. What I am sure of though, is that technological advances in the vineyard and the cellar allow wine to be made successfully in areas previously thought impossible. The fact that China is now the second largest vineyard owner in the world, illustrates how fast the world is moving. However, I for one hope that in 200 years’ time people will be enjoying the wines of France, very much as we do today.”

Charles Steevenson

Liam Steevenson, master of wine