Top of the Crops
It’s that glorious time of year in our part of the world when growers are rewarded with (hopefully) an abundant harvest.
Methods of harvesting have not seen many changes in recent decades with the two main techniques still being by hand or machine. Hand-picking fruit is naturally labour-intensive and costly. For smaller producers or in areas of steep terrain, this may be the only viable option. Some larger producers, especially wine makers, choose to hand pick a selected portion of crop for their higher end products to ensure a certain quality of fruit. Mechanical harvesting on the other hand, is efficient, cost effective and flexible. Introduced commercially in the 1960s, it has transformed the industry, enabling the grower to harvest at night when the sugar composition of the grapes is more stable, and avoid early forecasted frosts. Vineyards can hire out the machinery for the duration of the ingathering — some machinery even comes across from France!
In celebration of this time of year, I have chosen a selection of diverse, unique and very English products; perfect for raising a glass to say a huge thanks to the growers and producers.
The Grape Harvest
Grapevines first arrived on the shores of England thanks to the Romans. With around 700 vineyards and 130 wineries producing an average of 5 million bottles each year, the UK is edging on to the main stage at a rate of knots. The cool climate here ripens the fruit slowly, producing grapes that bear a delightful fresh vibrant character. Our vineyards did not have the best start to the year, after temperatures plummeted in late April. English wine producers feared the frost would wipe out developing buds, catastrophically reducing this year’s yield by as much as 80%. However, following the early summer heatwave, a little optimism has returned.
An example of an accomplished English wine is Chapel Down's Bacchus 2016 vintage at £13.49. With an alluring aromatic palate of citrus fruit, gooseberry and nettle, leading to a clean dry finish, this gem from Kent is a ‘must’ with seafood.
The Apple Harvest
The UK is the biggest consumer of cider and here in the West Country we don't disappoint. Harvest time for cider fruit, be it apples, or pears which make perry, is roughly from September to November according to apple growth, but certainly by October production is in full flow. Hand-picking and mechanical methods are used, the latter being more popular in the larger orchards. Notable varietals include Brown Snout, Dabinett and Kingston Black.
Dunkertons Organic Black Fox Cider £2.29 is the perfect English cider. From Herefordshire, slightly off-dry, this sultry cider is crafted from traditional cider apples. Expect to be greeted with a robust explosion of full-flavoured apples followed by a divine bittersweet finish.
The Potato Harvest?
Not a food you would associate with an alcoholic beverage, but the humble spud has been used for centuries as an ingredient in vodka. In the late 18th century, potatoes were a much cheaper raw material than cereal grains and were used to make a 'consolation spirit' for those who could not afford the grain alternative. Nowadays the tables have turned; potato vodka is generally more expensive and complex to produce. Potatoes are harvested small so they retain their fullest flavour and give the vodka a creamy characteristic.
My top of the vodkas has to be Chase Potato Vodka, at £35.50. Using potato varieties such as King Edward and Lady Claire this English vodka is smooth with a naturally sweet and creamy taste and an elegant finish. The ultimate Martini base - the only question is - shaken or stirred?
Jason Mules
Waitrose