Sticklepath, South Zeal and South Tawton
Distance: Approximately 4.5 miles
Difficulty: A steep climb up and then down the lower slopes of Cosdon hill at the beginning of the walk.
Time: 2 hours
Start point: Park in the road by St Mary’s church in Sticklepath
OS grid reference: 641941
This walk connects three lovely Dartmoor villages via ancient trackways, open moorland, rivers and streams. It follows part of the Archangel’s Way, a new pilgrimage route around the north of the moor from Brentor to Chagford.
Sticklepath is a charming village which lies at the foot of the imposing Cosdon Hill. It has been located here on the main transport route to Cornwall for many centuries, but thankfully today’s A30 passes to the north and the village is much quieter today.
Our walk begins from Finch Foundry, a 19th century water-powered forge which is now managed by the National Trust. It is well worth a visit. From the carpark behind the forge, head towards the Taw river through a gate in the far corner next to the Quaker graveyard. Cross the footbridge over the river and turn right to follow the river up stream.
Pass through a gate and immediately turn left up a steep track. This soon bears sharp right, then levels out (for a while!) through the wood to arrive at another gate. It’s a delightful carpet of bluebells in Spring. Turn immediately left beyond the gate, and the path now climbs steeply again. Follow the field edge uphill to another gate which takes you onto the open moor. Still climbing, head straight ahead along a prominent path, aiming for the corner of a field bounded by a stone wall. There are amazing views in all directions from here.
At this point, if you are still game for more climbing, as an optional extra you can continue straight up a clearly defined track to the summit of Cosdon Hill. At 550 metres above sea level, it’s one of the highest points on Dartmoor. On a clear day you can see south to the English Channel, and north to the Bristol Channel. Climbing to the top and then retracing your steps to re-join the main walking route, will add the best part of an hour to your walk.
Otherwise, if you’ve climbed far enough, turn left just above the field corner, initially following the stone wall in an easterly direction. The path soon becomes a trackway between stone walls and starts to descend towards South Zeal. Follow the track downhill, bearing left at a fork which will bring you out close to Ford Farm. Cross the main road, turn right along the footpath, and after 200 metres take a signed footpath to your left through a field to another gate in the far hedge line. Follow the footpath signs through three fields alongside a small stream. This section can be quite muddy in winter or after heavy rain.
The path emerges in South Zeal next to the historic Oxenham Arms, formally a medieval Benedictine monastery. Even more unusually, there is a neolithic Menhir (standing stone) that can be seen in the very centre of the building. Turn left up the hill through the village, and take the right turn next to St Mary’s Chapel. This 14th Century building and garden is also well worth a visit. Follow the road past the School, then take a left turn signposted to South Tawton, followed by a right turn at Moons Cross (sadly just a central granite post these days) which leads into the village.
The Church House is another historic building that has seen service as a school, hospital and poor house at various times over the past 500 years. As a further attraction, it offers excellent cream teas on summer Sundays! To complete the walk, take the bridleway outside the Church House which heads up the hill away from the village. This forms part of the famous Tarka Trail, a 180-mile figure of eight walking and cycling route centred on Barnstaple. Follow the track between fields for half a mile, until it descends steeply into Sticklepath. Turn right, cross the bridge over the river Taw and you’ll be back at your starting point.
By Lisa Harris