Walk: Throwleigh, Gidleigh and Providence
Distance: Approximately 5.5 miles
Difficulty: A few ups and downs, and there are also flat sections of easy walking with magnificent views
Time: 2 hours
Start point: By the church in the centre of Throwleigh village.
OS grid reference: 667908
This walk follows a circuit from Throwleigh through quiet lanes and ancient trackways, with beautiful views and plenty of history. It also connects three churches which form part of the Archangel’s Way, a new pilgrimage route around the north of the moor from Brentor to Chagford.
Throwleigh church is well worth a visit. Dating from the 13th Century, its many features of interest include an amazing priests’ door, and both a “green man” and “three hares” roof bosses. The churchyard is a colourful mass of daffodils in spring.
Our walk leaves the churchyard by the southern exit – heading up the hill away from the village and towards Shilstone Tor. After about a quarter of a mile the road levels out and you should look for a narrow footpath on your left between fields. It then takes you over several stiles (which may be a bit awkward for large dogs!) and through pleasant open fields. The path then passes through a small farmyard onto a very narrow lane at the hamlet of Aysh where you should turn left.
After about half a mile of walking downhill close to the delightful Forder Brook, you reach the hamlet of Forder, where you turn right towards Gidleigh. Very soon the road forks and you should take the lane to the left, signposted to Chapple and Gidleigh. There is very little traffic and lovely views across to Meldon and beyond. Stay on this lane, ignoring turnings to the right and then to the left, until you reach the outskirts of Gidleigh village. Turn left here towards the church, following the signpost to “Village Hall and Church”.
For an optional extra section, which is lovely but often quite muddy, take the right turn at Chapple along a lane signposted to Moortown instead of heading directly towards Gidleigh. This detour will add about 30 minutes to your walk overall. After about half a mile you come to a footpath on your left, signed “Mariners Way, Gidleigh”. Follow it down the short farm track then go through a gate into a charming ancient wood. Just before the clapper bridge over the stream, leave the path and climb over a stone wall to your left. Follow the field edge for 80 metres to visit the ruined chapel of La Wallen, desecrated in 1332 after a murder was committed there. Retrace your steps to rejoin the footpath, which takes you in a straight – if rather muddy - line through fields and stepping stones to rejoin the main route at Gidleigh.
The small village of Gidleigh boosts the unusual distinction of a ruined 13th century castle (or more accurately a small fortified manor house). It’s on private land, but can be seen through an iron gate from the road at the far side of a lovely garden. The church is of similar vintage and is one of only a handful in the country that has a watercourse flowing through it. Just past the church take a track to the left which heads steeply downhill past Gidleigh Mill, reaching a lane near the hamlet of Coombe. Turn left up the lane and after 150 metres take a footpath to the right which follows another ancient trackway uphill to Providence. On reaching the road turn left and you will find the third church on our route – a small Methodist chapel built in 1839.
The final stage of the walk takes you along the lane back towards Throwleigh. Ignore a turning to the right (unless you are aiming for refreshment at the nearby Wonson Arms) and then follow a trackway to the right in between houses, just after the road bears left. This is Deave Lane, an ancient byway formally used as a “way of the dead” between churches and burial grounds. It runs for about a mile in a straight line between fields. At the end of the lane you will emerge close to your starting point in Throwleigh.
By Lisa Harris